The first thing you notice on M-119 north of Harbor Springs is what’s missing. No center line. No shoulder worth the name. Just two narrow lanes of asphalt slipping under a canopy of maple, beech, oak, and hemlock that closes overhead like the entrance to somewhere older than Michigan’s tourist brochures admit. My co-driver had … Read more
The parking lot at Lake of the Clouds was full by 8:40 on a Saturday morning, and nobody in it seemed to mind waiting. We stood three deep at the rail in light gloves and September breath, watching a valley the size of a small city burn quietly in every direction — maple red, birch … Read more
There is a moment on every good road trip when the plan dissolves and the detour takes over. Mine happened on Highway 13 in eastern Michigan, somewhere north of Bay City, when a billboard the size of a barn announced CHEESE in letters visible from what felt like another county. I was headed toward Lake … Read more
There’s a moment driving across the Mackinac Bridge when Lake Michigan and Lake Huron stretch out beneath you in every direction and you realize you’re about to enter somewhere that doesn’t feel quite like the rest of America. Michigan’s Upper Peninsula — locals just call it “the UP” — is that rare place where the … Read more