There’s a moment on the last Monday of August when Grand Teton National Park audibly changes gears. I’ve now been there for it twice — once from a campsite at Colter Bay, once from a rented cabin outside Kelly — and both times it felt like watching a theater clear out after the matinee. The … Read more
There’s a moment in Yellowstone’s Lamar Valley when the light turns molten around 6:45 on a late September morning. The grass has gone amber, a thin crust of frost crackes under your boots, and somewhere in the timber a bull elk lets loose a sound that starts in his chest, climbs into a high trembling … Read more
There’s a stretch of late August that feels like someone handed you a VIP pass to the entire country. The families have gone home. The college kids are back on campus. And somehow — miraculously — the weather hasn’t gotten the memo that summer is ending. I stumbled into this window by accident three years … Read more