I’m standing on La Rambla in Barcelona at 2 PM on a Saturday, and a woman just tried to unzip my crossbody bag while pretending to sign a petition. She didn’t get in. But she could have. Three years ago, she would have. That moment — the clipboard thrust in my face, the practiced distraction, … Read more
The first time I fried a device overseas, I was twenty-three and sitting in a hostel in Florence with a hair dryer that had just made a sound like a bug zapper hitting a moth. The adapter I’d bought at an airport kiosk for twelve euros hadn’t converted the voltage — it had just changed … Read more
Anyone who has spent more than a few nights living out of a vehicle eventually confronts the same question: what do you do when nature calls and there is no plumbing anywhere around? It is the unglamorous side of off-grid travel that Instagram rarely covers, yet it can make or break a trip faster than … Read more
I learned the hard way that sunscreen alone doesn’t cut it. It was a 14-mile day on a section of the Arizona Trail, mid-June, and by mile 10 the back of my neck felt like a stovetop. I’d slathered on SPF 50 twice, but sweat and friction from my pack straps had stripped it down … Read more
The temperature display on my dashboard read 119°F when I pulled into a dispersed camping spot outside Tucson last July. I sat there for a full minute, engine idling, staring at that number while the steering wheel burned my palms. Three days earlier, I’d been in the mountains of Colorado sleeping under a quilt. Now … Read more
I’ve been carrying tripods on planes, trains, and rental cars for over a decade. And for most of that time, I hated every single one of them. Too heavy. Too flimsy. Too complicated. Or worst of all — the kind that looks like a real tripod but collapses the moment a coastal breeze picks up. … Read more
There’s a particular kind of panic that hits when your phone drops below 5% and you’re twelve miles into a hike with nothing but trees and questionable cell service around you. I know that panic intimately. It happened to me on the North Cascades loop last summer, and it’s exactly why I stopped treating portable … Read more
The roof of a campervan is the most contested real estate on the entire vehicle. Every square inch has to earn its keep. Solar panels need sun. Vent fans need clearance. Starlink dishes need an unobstructed view of the sky. And somehow, all of it has to coexist on a metal surface that might be … Read more
I spent three months living out of a cooler and a single-burner butane stove before I finally broke down and built a real kitchen in my van. Not a “real kitchen” by apartment standards — I’m talking about a 32-inch galley counter, a drawer fridge that runs on 12 volts, and a sink the size … Read more
There I was, thirty thousand feet over the Atlantic, staring at the seatback screen in front of me. The movie selection was legitimately good — three films I’d been meaning to watch for months. But the free earbuds the airline handed out had the audio quality of a tin can telephone, and the $3 adapter … Read more