I pulled into Leadville, Colorado, at 10:152 feet above sea level, windows down, and my phone read 63 degrees. That was in the middle of July. Six hours earlier, I’d been sweating through my shirt in Denver at 97. The temperature drop didn’t make sense to my body — I’d driven straight uphill into what … Read more
I spent three months living out of a cooler and a single-burner butane stove before I finally broke down and built a real kitchen in my van. Not a “real kitchen” by apartment standards — I’m talking about a 32-inch galley counter, a drawer fridge that runs on 12 volts, and a sink the size … Read more
There I was, thirty thousand feet over the Atlantic, staring at the seatback screen in front of me. The movie selection was legitimately good — three films I’d been meaning to watch for months. But the free earbuds the airline handed out had the audio quality of a tin can telephone, and the $3 adapter … Read more
The first time I got caught in a desert monsoon, I thought the world was ending. I was hiking outside Tucson in 108-degree heat when the sky turned the color of a bruised plum. Wind hit me so hard I staggered sideways. Ten minutes later, rain came in sheets so thick I couldn’t see the … Read more
Some travel lessons arrive as gentle realizations. Others hit you like a delayed boarding announcement after you’ve already finished your second overpriced airport beer. I’ve had plenty of both over the years, and somewhere between my first chaotic international connection and last month’s smoothly executed three-city loop, a set of rules quietly crystallized. These aren’t … Read more
I stood at the Visitor Center in Zion last July, sandwiched between a family of five and a busload of tourists all photographing the same shuttle bus. The thermometer read 104 degrees. The line for the restroom wrapped around the building. And I thought: there has to be a better way. That’s when I started … Read more
Every road trip starts the same way. You promise yourself this time will be different. You’ll eat well, save money, and avoid the fluorescent-lit trap of gas station food courts. Then hour six hits, your stomach growls, and you find yourself holding a warm chicken sandwich and a bag of chips that cost fourteen dollars. … Read more
There’s a specific kind of freedom that comes with unhitching a travel trailer in the middle of nowhere, watching the sunset paint the desert walls, and knowing you have power, water, and climate control for the next week — no campground reservation, no hookups, no neighbors three feet away. That freedom doesn’t happen by accident. … Read more
I’ve driven across America three times. Each trip was unforgettable — and each one left me exhausted, white-knuckled, and wondering why I’d volunteered to stare at 2,800 miles of interstate instead of actually seeing the country. So this summer, I’m doing something different. I’m parking the car, booking a Superliner bedroom on Amtrak’s California Zephyr, … Read more
I’ve logged enough highway miles with kids in the backseat to know that the difference between a trip everyone remembers fondly and one that ends with someone crying in a gas station parking lot comes down to preparation. Not the kind where you fold outfits into packing cubes and label snack bags — I mean … Read more