I’ve been to twelve state fairs in the last three years. Not because I set out to collect them like passport stamps, but because somewhere between my second corn dog and my first deep-fried Oreos, I realized that nothing captures the strange, beautiful, deeply American summer experience quite like a state fair. My team and … Read more
I almost didn’t write this. My team had been pushing me to cover the usual suspects — Cape Cod, Nantucket, Bar Harbor — but after three weeks of researching overcrowded New England beach towns where you’ll pay $400 a night to hear your neighbor’s kids through thin motel walls, I needed something different. I pulled … Read more
There’s a moment driving north on Highway 21 through the Idaho backcountry when the road crests a final hill and the Sawtooth Range materializes in your windshield like a wall of teeth. I nearly pulled off the asphalt right there — just stopped the car and stared. Eighty miles of uninterrupted granite skyline, snowfields still … Read more
I almost didn’t go. For three years, Glacier National Park had been the one major park I kept skipping, mostly because the vehicle reservation system felt like another layer of planning I didn’t have bandwidth for. You needed to book a slot, hope the weather cooperated for that specific window, and then race through the … Read more
I learned the hard way that sunscreen alone doesn’t cut it. It was a 14-mile day on a section of the Arizona Trail, mid-June, and by mile 10 the back of my neck felt like a stovetop. I’d slathered on SPF 50 twice, but sweat and friction from my pack straps had stripped it down … Read more
The temperature display on my dashboard read 119°F when I pulled into a dispersed camping spot outside Tucson last July. I sat there for a full minute, engine idling, staring at that number while the steering wheel burned my palms. Three days earlier, I’d been in the mountains of Colorado sleeping under a quilt. Now … Read more
The ferry ride from Ventura Harbor takes about ninety minutes, and somewhere around the forty-minute mark, the coastline of Southern California shrinks into a thin brown smear behind you. That’s when it hits — the quiet realization that you’re heading toward a place most Californians have never bothered to visit, even though it sits right … Read more
I pulled into Leadville, Colorado, at 10:152 feet above sea level, windows down, and my phone read 63 degrees. That was in the middle of July. Six hours earlier, I’d been sweating through my shirt in Denver at 97. The temperature drop didn’t make sense to my body — I’d driven straight uphill into what … Read more
There’s something that happens to your brain when a thousand-pound animal surfaces three feet from where you’re standing. Time slows down. Your breathing changes. You become acutely aware that you’re in the presence of something ancient, something patient, something that has been swimming in these waters since before humans figured out how to write. I’m … Read more
I’ll say this about Lassen Volcanic National Park: it’s the only place in America where I stood next to a boiling mud pot, looked up at a glacier-carved peak, and watched a deer graze in a wildflower meadow — all within a 20-minute drive. And I had the trail mostly to myself. While the rest … Read more