The first time I went apple picking as an adult, I got it completely wrong. It was the second weekend of October, I’d read exactly one blog post, and I showed up to a Hudson Valley orchard at eleven in the morning expecting Honeycrisp. What I got was a parking field the size of a … Read more
Every September, my inbox fills with the same question from friends who should know better: “Should I finally do Munich?” And every September I give the same answer. If what you actually want is steins, brass bands, pretzels the size of hubcaps, and a crowd that polkas like it means it, you don’t need a … Read more
Some numbers refuse to compute until you’re standing in front of them. Nine million gallons of water an hour is one of those numbers. That’s how much pours out of Mammoth Spring, the second-largest spring in the Ozarks, every sixty minutes — enough to fill the Spring River, stock it with impatient rainbow trout, keep … Read more
There’s a moment on every flight where the wheels leave the pavement and the whole world rearranges itself. The road trip you planned in two dimensions becomes a map you’re living inside of, and the $100 hamburger — the pilot’s beloved excuse for flying somewhere just to eat — stops being an aviation inside joke … Read more
I smelled Hot Springs before I saw it. Rolling into town on a September evening, the windows down and the Ouachita Mountains turning the color of bruised plums behind me, there was sulfur in the air — faint, mineral, not unpleasant once you stop thinking about it. My itinerary had this stop penciled in as … Read more
Pine Island, Florida doesn’t try to impress you. There are no high-rise condos crowding the shoreline, no traffic lights backing up onto the interstate, no chain restaurants masquerading as local flavor. What exists here instead is something increasingly rare on Florida’s Gulf Coast: a working fishing community where the dockside bars serve grouper caught that … Read more
The ferry from San Pedro takes exactly one hour. Sixty minutes where the smog thins, the Pacific turns from slate to sapphire, and the mainland shrinks into something you stop thinking about. I stood at the rail watching Catalina grow on the horizon — a craggy silhouette rising from the channel — and felt that … Read more
There’s a specific moment when a cabin weekend clicks into place. For me, it happens on the first evening — cooler full of food, fire going, porch chair creaking underneath me, and the kind of silence you forget exists when you live in a city. But getting to that moment? That requires gear. And not … Read more
I almost didn’t write this article. Not because the Catskills didn’t deserve it — but because I was halfway hoping nobody else would discover what I found during ten days last June, driving through Greene and Ulster Counties with no plan beyond “find water and follow it.” What I found was a mountain region two … Read more
I almost didn’t go. A friend mentioned Block Island offhandedly at a barbecue last summer — something about “the Hamptons without the attitude” — and I filed it away under “places I’ll eventually forget.” But a cancelled ferry to Martha’s Vineyard in late June left me stranded at the dock in Point Judith with a … Read more