There is a marble monument on a hillside in the Poconos holding the remains of a man who never once set foot in the town that carries his name. I stood in front of it last October, coffee going cold in my hand, while one of my researchers read aloud from a pamphlet she’d grabbed … Read more
There’s a moment on every trip when the vacation haze lifts and you realize you’re hungry, not for another restaurant, but for food that tastes like somewhere. On Florida’s Gulf Coast, that moment usually arrives somewhere along Pine Island Road, the four-lane ribbon that stitches Cape Coral to the mainland and eventually to the fishing … Read more
Some drives earn their keep with mileage. The loop out of Stuart, Florida — across the St. Lucie River, over the Sewall’s Point peninsula, up the spine of Hutchinson Island, and back to the mainland at Jensen Beach — barely covers a dozen miles of actual road. You could finish it in half an hour … Read more
There is a moment on every good road trip when the plan dissolves and the detour takes over. Mine happened on Highway 13 in eastern Michigan, somewhere north of Bay City, when a billboard the size of a barn announced CHEESE in letters visible from what felt like another county. I was headed toward Lake … Read more
The first time I crested the hill into the Wallowa Valley, my photographer grabbed my arm before I’d even stopped the truck. Below us: a ribbon of river, a lake the color of glacial milk, and a wall of nine-thousand-foot peaks catching the last of the light. We had driven six hours from Portland and … Read more
Some numbers refuse to compute until you’re standing in front of them. Nine million gallons of water an hour is one of those numbers. That’s how much pours out of Mammoth Spring, the second-largest spring in the Ozarks, every sixty minutes — enough to fill the Spring River, stock it with impatient rainbow trout, keep … Read more
I smelled Hot Springs before I saw it. Rolling into town on a September evening, the windows down and the Ouachita Mountains turning the color of bruised plums behind me, there was sulfur in the air — faint, mineral, not unpleasant once you stop thinking about it. My itinerary had this stop penciled in as … Read more
There is a moment, halfway across the bridge that leaves Jupiter and angles toward the barrier island, when the mainland noise simply stops. The Intracoastal opens up beneath you, the water goes from channel-deep green to the impossible turquoise of the shallows, and ahead stands a thin green ribbon of land that most Floridians have … Read more
There’s a moment on the last Monday of August when Grand Teton National Park audibly changes gears. I’ve now been there for it twice — once from a campsite at Colter Bay, once from a rented cabin outside Kelly — and both times it felt like watching a theater clear out after the matinee. The … Read more
There’s a moment when the ferry pulls away from Mackinaw City and the engine noise fades into the wind off Lake Huron — that’s when it hits you. No cars. No traffic lights. No honking. Just water, limestone bluffs, and the distant clip-clop of horses on a dirt road. I’ve traveled to a lot of … Read more