By the last week of October, most of the country’s leaf-chasing apparatus has packed up and gone home. New England is brown. Michigan’s Tunnel of Trees has dropped its curtain. The aspen ladders of Colorado are bare sticks above twelve thousand feet. And that is precisely when I load the truck and point it toward … Read more
I have a ritual now, and it starts before my suitcase hits the floor. Door closes behind me, and instead of heading straight for the fridge or the balcony view, I stand in the entryway and take one long, slow look around the place. Then the detector comes out of my backpack, and for the … Read more
There is a moment, about halfway across the causeway to Cana Island, when you look down and realize the path under your feet has quietly disappeared. One step you’re on limestone gravel; the next you’re standing in Lake Michigan, water sloshing around your ankles, with an 1869 lighthouse dead ahead and a tractor rumbling past … Read more
There’s a specific week in late September when I stop pretending summer is coming back. The forecast app on my phone starts showing overnight lows in the thirties for the mountain towns I like to camp in, and I pull up the average first-frost date for my zip code the way other people check football … Read more
The first thing you notice on M-119 north of Harbor Springs is what’s missing. No center line. No shoulder worth the name. Just two narrow lanes of asphalt slipping under a canopy of maple, beech, oak, and hemlock that closes overhead like the entrance to somewhere older than Michigan’s tourist brochures admit. My co-driver had … Read more
The first time I went apple picking as an adult, I got it completely wrong. It was the second weekend of October, I’d read exactly one blog post, and I showed up to a Hudson Valley orchard at eleven in the morning expecting Honeycrisp. What I got was a parking field the size of a … Read more
Every shoreline has one spot that locals stop apologizing for. In Door County — a peninsula that runs on cherry stands, fish boils, and lighthouse postcards — that spot is a scrappy little county park on the Lake Michigan side where the waves do the talking. Cave Point doesn’t have a marina, a gatehouse, or … Read more
Ask ten people when to visit Door County and eight of them will say July. That’s exactly the problem. In July, Wisconsin’s Thumb — that 75-mile peninsula pinched between Green Bay and Lake Michigan — belongs to everyone from Chicago, and the line at the fish boil stretches past the picnic tables. By the second … Read more
Las Vegas runs out of buildings about forty minutes after you leave it. The slot machines give way to Joshua trees, the radio gives way to static, and then the road tips down into Eldorado Canyon and there it is: Nelson, Nevada, population small enough that the welcome sign seems optimistic. We had loaded the … Read more
The forecast said the high country around Crested Butte was flipping, so my crew and I pointed the truck west out of town before sunrise, thermoses full, headlamps still in our pockets. By the time the sun cleared the ridgeline above Kebler Pass, we understood why people drive a thousand miles for this. An entire … Read more