I almost didn’t go. For three years, Glacier National Park had been the one major park I kept skipping, mostly because the vehicle reservation system felt like another layer of planning I didn’t have bandwidth for. You needed to book a slot, hope the weather cooperated for that specific window, and then race through the … Read more
Some of the best travel destinations don’t have parking lots. No bridges, no ferry terminals, no ride-share drop-off zones. Cabbage Key, a tiny mangrove-and-palm island tucked into Pine Island Sound on Florida’s Gulf Coast, is one of those places. You can only get there by boat — and that single fact shapes everything about the … Read more
The ferry ride from Ventura Harbor takes about ninety minutes, and somewhere around the forty-minute mark, the coastline of Southern California shrinks into a thin brown smear behind you. That’s when it hits — the quiet realization that you’re heading toward a place most Californians have never bothered to visit, even though it sits right … Read more
I pulled into Leadville, Colorado, at 10:152 feet above sea level, windows down, and my phone read 63 degrees. That was in the middle of July. Six hours earlier, I’d been sweating through my shirt in Denver at 97. The temperature drop didn’t make sense to my body — I’d driven straight uphill into what … Read more
There’s something that happens to your brain when a thousand-pound animal surfaces three feet from where you’re standing. Time slows down. Your breathing changes. You become acutely aware that you’re in the presence of something ancient, something patient, something that has been swimming in these waters since before humans figured out how to write. I’m … Read more
I’ll say this about Lassen Volcanic National Park: it’s the only place in America where I stood next to a boiling mud pot, looked up at a glacier-carved peak, and watched a deer graze in a wildflower meadow — all within a 20-minute drive. And I had the trail mostly to myself. While the rest … Read more
The first time I got caught in a desert monsoon, I thought the world was ending. I was hiking outside Tucson in 108-degree heat when the sky turned the color of a bruised plum. Wind hit me so hard I staggered sideways. Ten minutes later, rain came in sheets so thick I couldn’t see the … Read more
I’m standing at the base of Mount Marathon in Seward, Alaska, watching people sprint up a mountain that most sane humans would prefer to climb slowly. It’s the Fourth of July, and this grueling 3.5-mile race — straight up 3,022 feet of scree, shale, and suffering, then straight back down — has been a Kenai … Read more
I almost didn’t write about North Cascades. There’s a selfish part of me that wanted to keep quiet about the one national park where you can show up on a Friday in July and still find an empty trailhead. But that’s exactly why more people need to know — because this park is too extraordinary … Read more
If you blink crossing the bridge from the mainland onto Pine Island, you’ll miss it. But that would be a mistake. Matlacha, Florida — pronounced “mat-la-SHAY” — occupies a sliver of land so narrow that the Gulf of Mexico laps at one side of the road while the back bay bleeds into the other. It … Read more