I stood at the Visitor Center in Zion last July, sandwiched between a family of five and a busload of tourists all photographing the same shuttle bus. The thermometer read 104 degrees. The line for the restroom wrapped around the building. And I thought: there has to be a better way. That’s when I started … Read more
I’ve been to a lot of national parks. I’ve driven the Going-to-the-Sun Road, hiked into the Grand Canyon, and watched Old Faithful from a bench surrounded by three hundred strangers. But nothing prepared me for a park where you can’t actually go anywhere without a boat. That’s Voyageurs National Park — 218,000 acres of northern … Read more
I saw it all over my feed for months before I finally caved. The Maelstrom travel backpack — the one with the shoe compartment, the USB port, the hidden anti-theft pocket — had become the “it” bag for anyone under thirty who travels with more than a change of clothes and less than a full … Read more
The ferry from San Pedro takes exactly one hour. Sixty minutes where the smog thins, the Pacific turns from slate to sapphire, and the mainland shrinks into something you stop thinking about. I stood at the rail watching Catalina grow on the horizon — a craggy silhouette rising from the channel — and felt that … Read more
I’ve stood at the edge of a lot of overlooks in this country, but nothing prepared me for that first glimpse of Crater Lake. You pull into the Rim Village parking lot, walk about thirty seconds toward the edge, and suddenly the ground just drops away beneath you — and there it is. This impossibly … Read more
I’d been driving east on US-50 through Nevada for two hours without passing a single gas station, restaurant, or town worth more than a paragraph in a guidebook. My Celestron SkyMaster binoculars rode shotgun, ready for the dark skies ahead. The highway stretched ahead like a gray ribbon unspooling across alkali flats, and my phone … Read more
I’ve been to a lot of mountain lakes. Living out of a van for the better part of two years means I’ve dipped my toes in alpine water from Glacier to Banff, and most of them blur together after a while. But Lake Tahoe is different. The first time I crested the ridge on Highway … Read more
The first time I pulled off a dusty BLM road in southern Utah and killed the engine, the silence hit me like a physical thing. No highway drone. No neighbor’s TV. Just wind through the sage and a horizon so wide it made my chest open up. I’d spent months planning that trip — studying … Read more
I almost didn’t write this article. Not because the Catskills didn’t deserve it — but because I was halfway hoping nobody else would discover what I found during ten days last June, driving through Greene and Ulster Counties with no plan beyond “find water and follow it.” What I found was a mountain region two … Read more
I almost didn’t go. A friend mentioned Block Island offhandedly at a barbecue last summer — something about “the Hamptons without the attitude” — and I filed it away under “places I’ll eventually forget.” But a cancelled ferry to Martha’s Vineyard in late June left me stranded at the dock in Point Judith with a … Read more