I almost didn’t go. A friend mentioned Block Island offhandedly at a barbecue last summer — something about “the Hamptons without the attitude” — and I filed it away under “places I’ll eventually forget.” But a cancelled ferry to Martha’s Vineyard in late June left me stranded at the dock in Point Judith with a rental car, a free weekend, and nowhere to be. So I bought a ticket on the Block Island Ferry, and within an hour I was watching the Rhode Island coastline dissolve into a blue haze behind me. By the time I stepped off the boat in Old Harbor, I already knew I’d made the right call.
Block Island sits about thirteen miles south of mainland Rhode Island, and it occupies that sweet spot between accessible and untouched that most coastal destinations lost decades ago. The island is roughly seven miles long and three miles wide — small enough to bike in a day, big enough to get properly lost on its network of stone-walled lanes and dirt paths. What hooked me wasn’t any single beach or overlook (though there are plenty of both). It was the feeling that I’d stumbled onto a place that had somehow opted out of the race to overdevelop.
Getting There: The Ferry Is Half the Experience
The traditional ferry from Point Judith takes about an hour, and honestly, that ride is part of the magic. I stood on the open deck with a coffee and watched fishing boats cut across the Great Salt Pond as we approached the island. If you’re bringing a car, reservations are essential in summer — but here’s my advice: don’t bring one. The island is best explored by bicycle or on foot, and the parking situation in town is tight enough to test your patience. There’s also a high-speed ferry that makes the run in about thirty minutes, departing from both Point Judith and Montauk, Long Island.
You can also fly in on a tiny prop plane from Westerly, Rhode Island, which takes about twelve minutes and offers aerial views of the island’s dramatic clay cliffs. I haven’t done this yet, but it’s on my list for next time — mostly because every local I met told me the approach over the Southeast Lighthouse is unforgettable.
Mohegan Bluffs: The View That Stopped Me in My Tracks
I rented a bike from a shop near the ferry terminal and headed south almost immediately. The hills on Block Island are no joke — I was grateful I’d packed a large insulated water bottle because the climb up to Mohegan Bluffs left me drenched. But the payoff hit me like a wall. Standing at the top of those 200-foot clay cliffs, I could see the Atlantic stretching to the horizon, with the faint outline of Montauk visible on clear days. A steep wooden staircase (141 steps, I counted) leads down to a secluded beach below where the surf crashes against rust-colored rock formations.
The Bluffs were recently named Rhode Island’s most romantic destination by Travel + Leisure, and I get it. Even solo, standing at the edge with the wind whipping off the ocean, I felt that rare travel emotion that’s somewhere between awe and peace. Plan to spend at least an hour here — longer if you brave the stairs and want beach time at the bottom.
The Southeast Lighthouse: A Sentinel Worth the Detour
Just up the road from Mohegan Bluffs sits the Southeast Lighthouse, perched on the clay cliffs like it grew there. Built in 1875, this Victorian Gothic structure was actually moved 360 feet inland in 1993 because erosion was threatening to send it tumbling into the sea. You can tour the interior during summer months for a few dollars and climb to the lantern room for panoramic views of the island. I’m not usually a lighthouse tour person, but this one genuinely impressed me — the Fresnel lens alone is worth the admission.
The grounds around the lighthouse are wide and grassy, perfect for a picnic if you’ve planned ahead. I hadn’t, so I made a mental note for next time and pedaled on toward my next stop.
Crescent Beach: The Main Event
Block Island’s crown jewel is Crescent Beach, a sweep of white sand that runs along the eastern shore for nearly two miles. I showed up mid-morning on a Saturday in late June expecting crowds comparable to Cape Cod, and found… plenty of room. The water was brisk — this is the Atlantic, after all, not the Gulf — but swimmable, and the gentle slope means you can wade out a surprisingly long way before it gets deep.
I set up near the Fred Benson Town Beach section where lifeguards are on duty and a pop-up beach tent would have been smart (the sun is relentless by noon). If you’re traveling with kids, this stretch is ideal — calm surf, clean facilities, and a snack bar within walking distance. For more solitude, continue north along Corn Neck Road where the beach gets narrower and the crowds thin to almost nothing.
Exploring the Great Salt Pond by Kayak
On my second day, I rented a kayak from a outfitter in New Harbor and spent the morning paddling through the Great Salt Pond, a sheltered body of water that separates the northern and southern halves of the island. The pond is calm enough for beginners but interesting enough for experienced paddlers, with coves to explore, osprey nests to spot, and water clear enough to see crabs scuttling along the bottom.
If you’re new to kayaking, the outfitters around New Harbor offer guided tours that cover the pond’s highlights in about two hours. I went solo with a dry bag strapped to the front of my boat and spent three lazy hours poking into every inlet I could find. The north end of the pond opens to a narrow channel that leads to the ocean — skip this unless you’re experienced, as the current can be strong.
The Clay Head Preserve and Island Hiking
Block Island has over 28 miles of hiking trails, and the most dramatic are in the Clay Head Preserve on the northeastern side. The main trail follows the cliff edge high above the ocean, with views that rival anything I’ve seen along the California coast. The terrain shifts between open meadow, dense shrubland, and exposed clay formations that look almost alien in the right light.
I hiked the Clay Head Trail in about ninety minutes at a leisurely pace, stopping frequently to take photos and watch a pair of American oystercatchers working the shoreline far below. Bring solid trail shoes — the paths can be uneven, and the clay gets slippery after rain. The preserve also connects to the Greenway Trails, a network that crisscrosses the island’s interior through fields and stone walls that look like they belong in an English countryside painting.
Where to Eat: Don’t Skip the Local Spots
Block Island’s food scene punches well above its weight for a place with only about a thousand year-round residents. My standout meal was at The Oar, a waterfront restaurant in New Harbor where I had a lobster roll that — and I don’t say this lightly — rivaled anything I’ve had in Maine. The deck seating overlooks the marina, and watching the sunset over the masts while cracking open a local IPA is the kind of travel memory that sticks.
For breakfast, Head of the Mist is a tiny cafe near town that serves outstanding coffee and fresh-baked pastries. I went both mornings. For dinner on a budget, the Block Island Grocery has a surprisingly good deli counter where you can assemble a picnic to take to the beach. And if you see a sign for a clambake, go. The island hosts them throughout the summer, and they’re a crash course in New England coastal culture.
Where to Stay: From Inns to Camping
Accommodations on Block Island range from charming Victorian inns to no-frills camping spots. I stayed at the 1661 Inn and Hotel, a cluster of historic buildings within walking distance of Old Harbor that felt like stepping back a century — in a good way. Rooms book up fast in July and August, so if you’re planning a summer trip, make reservations months ahead.
If you prefer sleeping under the stars, the Block Island State Park campground offers basic sites near the beach with showers and facilities. It’s first-come, first-served, and I met a couple who’d been coming back to the same site every June for fifteen years. That kind of loyalty tells you something. Bring a summer-weight sleeping bag — the ocean breeze keeps nighttime temps comfortable but cool.
Practical Tips for First-Timers
A few things I wish I’d known before my first visit: First, bring cash. Many smaller businesses on the island don’t accept cards, and the ATMs in town can run dry on busy weekends. Second, the island’s pace is genuinely slower — restaurants close when they run out of food, shops keep irregular hours, and nobody seems to be in a hurry. Lean into it. Third, if you’re prone to motion sickness, the ferry ride can be rough on windy days. Pack motion sickness remedies just in case.
Pack layers, too. Even in late June, the ocean breeze can drop the temperature ten degrees in minutes, especially on the south side near the Bluffs. A lightweight packable rain jacket is worth its weight in gold here — I got caught in a brief but intense shower my first afternoon and was grateful for the preparation.
Why Block Island Belongs on Your Summer 2026 List
I went to Block Island by accident and left already planning my return. In a summer where underrated East Coast beach towns are having a moment, Block Island stands out because it’s been quietly excellent for decades without feeling the need to announce itself. There are no mega-resorts, no boardwalk attractions, no chain restaurants. There’s just a windswept island with dramatic cliffs, clear water, fresh seafood, and the kind of unhurried authenticity that’s increasingly rare along the Eastern Seaboard.
Whether you’re planning a World Cup 2026 trip that takes you through New England or just looking for a long weekend escape from the city, Block Island delivers something most destinations can’t: the feeling that you’ve discovered a place, even though thousands of people discovered it before you. Go before the secret gets any louder than it already has.